McDonald’s has replaced Lenin. In Moscow, the endless queues waiting to visit his mausoleum can now be seen outside hamburger outlets: the Russians are consuming not meat but dreams. They have moved from reluctant shamanism – ancestor worship – to triumphant capitalism. Perestroika, restructuring, has taken over from glasnost. Gorbachev, the powerful leader of the USSR, must endure the facetious disrespect of two Azeris who, for twenty roubles, have their photos taken in front of his cardboard replica. The Empire is clearly falling apart.